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As printed in Jewellery Business, April 2010 issue, p. 28-30
By Ronald R. Dupuis, FGA, GJ

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Enduring Quality
A diamond and gold 'panther' ring by Cartier. keeping the status in status quo

Certain makers just seem to have been around forever, inspiring brand loyalty among numerous generations of customers despite or perhaps due to their willingness to swiftly change design focus to suit the times. Adaptability contributes to longevity, or as Charles Darwin famously said, “Survival is ultimately dependent on the ability to change and evolve.” In modern terms of commerce, adapt to the ever-changing marketplace or face extinction.

Astute advertising campaigns can be clever at attracting the buyer and the admiring onlooker, thereby influencing spending and collecting habits. Owning or viewing a precious, well-designed object provides the opportunity to live an inspired lifestyle at its apex, whether in reality or vicariously in fantasy. Signature logos, fonts, scripts, colours, and trademarks enable quick recognition by the average man-on-the-street. Who doesn’t recognize instantly the golden arches of hamburger fame, the Nike swoosh, or the swirl of the Disney font?

Luxury goods in many forms
The image a particular brand portrays is as important as the qualities it possesses. Brand and image are extremely closely related to the expectations and impressions of the wearer and viewer; sophistication and luxury mesh with whimsy. Some company names are indelibly linked to the values of quality and prestige. A Mercedes Benz and a Honda Civic can both transport you from point A to point B, but the former is perceived as more luxurious and of better workmanship than the latter. They are both equally efficient, but at different price points. Similarly, as in the finest jewellery houses with long histories, a tolerance for reinvention, along with effective marketing strategies, keeps them in vogue and at the forefront of customer shopping habits.
The patina of the ages and alterations in a company create trust in the myth and iconic images, indelibly linking a brand’s equity to the collector’s perception, which in turn, elicits positive feelings and stimulates pride of ownership in such particular assets. Not guilt by association, but gilt by association, and therefore, constituting an enduring and long-lasting form of brand loyalty. Or as they say in French, ‘Plus ça change, plus c’est la meme chose.’ 
Every potential collector makes a choice somewhere down the line. Will it be stuffed teddy bears, Chippendale furniture or a first edition of a great book? For jewellery lovers, it makes good sense to collect beautiful, compact pieces from the finest houses – they won't decrease in value as readily as those of unknown makers. Enjoy wearing the brooch or ring now, and sell it in a few years’ time for a more reasonable percentage of its retail value. Companies such as Hermès, Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Rolex and Patek Philippe, regularly resell at prices greater than unsigned pieces. Given the mass advertising of these high-profile companies, it is also easier to sell one of their pieces when the potential buyer is familiar with the brand.

Hermès—from horses to the horsey set
In 1837, a young Frenchman named Thierry Hermès opened a leather shop in Paris, making horse harnesses and saddles. Over the years, his small atelier has morphed into a global company noted for its exclusive handbags, colourful silk scarves, and desirable jewellery, all packaged in distinctive orange boxes. Limiting the quota of particular pieces simply adds to the brand’s cachet. From one small shop to the world stage, Hermès is enjoyed by royalty, heads of state, polo players, and other discerning clients with deep pockets who appreciate the timelessness of its designs, which are reinvented over and over.

Tiffany—not just for breakfast
The year 1837 also proved to be historical for a young Charles Lewis Tiffany, who opened a stationary store in New York and sold costume jewellery on the side. In the mid-1840s, the company—then known as Tiffany, Young and Ellis— sold silverware, and It wasn’t until 1845 that real gemstones became the stars in the Tiffany & Co., pantheon. The 1860s saw the transition to designing and manufacturing items to satisfy the needs and desires of the growing middle-class. By 1886, Tiffany’s six-prong diamond setting had made its debut.
The turn of the century saw subsequent generations of designers acquaint the public with the possibility of decorating the home with artistic renditions of intricately cut stained-glass lampshades and window panels in the art nouveau style. The easy recognition factor of a Tiffany piece, as well as the instantly identifiable robin’s egg blue box, enables such resale items to hold onto more of their initial value compared to unknown makers or no-name brands.

Patek Philippe Tiffany & Co. Marina B.

Cartier—metamorphosis of old-world luxury
The Cartier brothers were noted for creating spectacular jewelled items for crowned heads of state all over the world, as well as statement pieces for the wives and daughters of business tycoons, who made their considerable fortunes during the post-industrial revolution.
From the geometric delights of the Art Deco period, to the 1970’s ‘Love’ bangles and present-day wristwatches, all Cartier pieces come packaged in scarlet red boxes emblazoned with gold metallic imprint and the company’s signature font. Among collectors, Cartier vies with Tiffany & Co., for the greatest cachet. Buyers from all over the world routinely seek antique Cartier items. When special pieces do come up at auction, they can regularly sell for much more than their initial estimates, with the most rare items often selling for double or triple. An original fitted box adds to the allure.

Bulgari to Marina B—all in the family
With a Greco-Roman sensibility, Sotirio Bulgari embraced his Greek heritage and transplanted himself into the sweet life amidst the beautiful people of Rome in 1884. A lifetime of silversmithing and craftsmanship behind him, Bulgari, was later inspired by classic architecture and mythology, creating designs in the style of the Italian Renaissance to tempt the various

nobles and Hollywood glitterati flocking to the city in the 1950s. Thirty years later, Marina B—Bulgari’s granddaughter—espoused a more contemporary ethos than the original company in designs that favour colourful forms of a chunkier and more flamboyant nature. The desirability of Bulgari and Marina B pieces makes them worthy contenders for estate collections. Such pieces command healthy prices in the resale market.

Rolex—marketing to the masses

Rolex has one of the most effective advertising schemes of all the watch manufacturers, creating greater recognition, and thereby impacting public perception and spending. While a Rolex is bought for you as a graduation gift or some such milestone occasion, the Omega, with its suave, debonair, and exciting bad-boy image reflected in a James Bond movie, is the gift you buy yourself. With one arm casually arranged atop the open window of the Aston Martin, who needs air conditioning.
Rarity, higher price-points, the feeling of belonging to an exclusive private club, and being one of few rather than one of many, appeals to some. Getting a Rolex is often the starting point--it’s this first important watch purchase that inspires the addition of more unusual and lesser-known makers. Becoming addicted is easy.

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